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After just half an hour's climb, the boat looked like a tiny toy in a huge bathtub, before disappearing entirely from view.

Had I been paying more attention the evening before, I would have realised why he was being so cautious.

Over the dinner table hung a picture of skiers peering down a sheer drop of 1,000m – and we were at the very same point.

Carving S-shapes on the wide open slopes, we followed the water back to the lodge, where we collapsed into oversized armchairs while Burkhard headed back up the mountain to search for the missing ski.

Our time in Norway came just before the longest day of the year (which lasts two and a half months). Had I not been exhausted, I would have taken up Graham's offer of midnight skiing, which you do on north-facing slopes to get the full glare of the midnight sun.

The only other people we saw were some fishermen, who waved at us when we put out our own lines from the back of the boat to catch supper for the cook to prepare at the lodge.

The third day had us practising our kick turns, which are necessary for the steepest climbs. However, as we neared the top, we ran into the clouds; I saw Burkhard consulting his GPS ever more regularly as we inched our way forward in the white-out.The lodge was built by an Englishman, Graham Austick, who founded the Piste to Powder team of ski guides in St Anton, Austria.Having been seduced by the beauty of the fjords when he came skiing here on a yacht, he wanted to create something more permanent.From the shore, we saw a school of porpoises put on a fantastic acrobatic display of corkscrew jumps. Getting there SAS (020-8990 7000; flysas.com) flies to Tromso from Heathrow and Manchester via Oslo, as does Norwegian (020-8099 7254; norwegian.com), which also flies from Edinburgh.Staying there Colin Nicholson stayed as a guest of the Lyngen Lodge (00 47 476 278 53; lyngenlodge.com), which offers week-long stays in a double room from mid-February to the end of May for Nkr25,500 (£2,948) including full board and transfers, as well as boat, 4x4 and snowmobile rides, but not equipment hire or drinks. Before we were let loose on the boat, we set off to conquer the mountain near the lodge.

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